Taroko-Schlucht

Taroko-Schlucht

Nachdem wir noch am Abend vom Gästehausbesitzer kurzerhand eine ein-tätige Tour für die Erkundung der Taroko-Schlucht zusammengestellt bekommen haben konnten wir beruhigt ins Bett gehen. Trotz der langen und durchaus auch anstrengenden Radtour haben wir uns gar nicht so sehr kaputt gefühlt.

Frühstück

Am nächsten Morgen gab es dann erst einmal ein taiwanesisches Frühstück: Sandwich, Kartoffel, Salat und etwas Obst. Anschließend hat uns der Gästehausbesitzer zum Bahnhof gebracht, wo wir uns mit seiner Unterstützung zwei Klappräder für den Tag ausgeliehen haben. Unsere konnten wir leider nicht nehmen, da diese im Bus nicht erlaubt gewesen wären. Mit den Klapprädern im Gepäck sind wir mit dem Bus die Schlucht hinauf in Richtung Tianxiang gefahren. Die gut 20 Kilometer lange Strecke schlängelte sich durch die mal engere und mal weitere Schlucht, die über Jahrmillionen durch den Fluss Liwu entstanden ist. Das Gestein ist vor allem aus Marmor und Granit und es gibt streckenweise beeindruckend hohe Felswände (bis zu 500 Meter hoch), die fast schnurgerade abfallen.

Taroko-Schlucht
mit den Rädern „schluchtabwärts“

Von Tianxiang sind wir „schluchtabwärts“ losgefahren, wie es uns empfohlen wurde. Den ersten Stopp haben wir dann nach kaum 200 Metern gemacht. Hier ragt die Pagode des Xiangde-Tempels über die Schlucht. Nach einigen Treppenstufen hatten wir einen wunderbaren Blick über das gesamte Tal der Schlucht.

Buddha-Statue Xiangde-Tempel
Blick über Tianxiang

Nach einem guten Kilometer bergab haben wir die Fahrräder angeschlossen und uns zu Fuß auf einen der vielen kleinen Wanderwege gemacht, dem Lüshui-Trail. Der Weg führte zunächst relativ breit ein ganzes Stück bergauf. Nach einer Kehre wurde der Weg schließlich zu einem kleinen Pfad, der dann direkt über der Straße an der Klippe entlangführte. Nach einer kleinen Hängebrücke, die laut Schild keine Menschen mit Herzproblemen oder Bluthochdruck gehen dürfen, mussten wir einen 30 Meter langen Tunnel durchlaufen. Der Tunnel war stockdunkel und wir waren froh, dass uns zwei mit Taschenlampen ausgerüstete Wanderer entgegengekommen sind. So konnten wir wenigstens ein bisschen sehen. Nach einer knappen Stunde waren wir wieder bei den Rädern.

Lüshui-Trail

Weiter bergab haben wir eine 20 bis 30 Meter lange Hängebrücke entdeckt, die über die Schlucht führte. Wir haben uns auf die Brücke gewagt und wurden mit einem schönen Blick über die Schlucht belohnt.

lange Hängebrücke

Unser nächstes Ziel sollte dann das Schwalbentor sein, ein etwa 1 Kilometer Abschnitt der Hauptschlucht, in dem im Frühsommer Schwalben nisten. Den Teil der Strecke konnten wir mit den Rädern entlangfahren. Hier waren nun auch deutlich mehr Touristen zu sehen, da dieser Abschnitt ein Höhepunkt der Schlucht ist. Generell gilt die Taroko-Schlucht als eines der Haupttouristen-Spots in Taiwan, dem wir uns nur anschließen können.

das „Schwalbentor“

Ein Stückchen weiter haben wir dann eine kurze Mittagspause gemacht. Mit Blick auf den Changchun-Schrein (Schrein des ewigen Frühlings) haben wir Reisecken gedämpft im Bananenblatt (mhhh Steffi 😉), gefüllt mit Hackfleisch und Sandwich gegessen.

Changchun-Schrein

Anschließend haben wir uns auf den Weg zum Shakadang-Trail gemacht, ein ebenfalls als Höhepunkt angepriesener Wanderpfad in der Schlucht. Der Pfad ist eigentlich 4 Kilometer lang und führt zu einer kleinen Lichtung. Durch vergangenen Erdbeben ist der Pfad allerdings in Teilen zerstört und nicht mehr komplett begehbar. Auf dem Anfangsteil des Pfades waren dann „Unmengen“ an Touristen unterwegs, die teilweise sehr interessantes Schuhwerk getragen haben. Andi meinte nur, dass die hier wohl mit ihrer „Apostel-Bereifung“ wandern gehen… 😉
Wir haben dann das Schild „do not enter“ ausversehen übersehen und sind noch ein gutes Stück weiter den Pfad gelaufen. Der Pfad war sehr schön und auch das Wasser war hier deutlich klarer als zuvor in der Taroko-Schlucht (der Shakadang-Trail ist quasi ein Seitenarm). Hier war es eher sehr schlammig und grau. Auf dem gesamten Weg wurden wir immer wieder von sehr vielen Schmetterlingen begleitet, die mal größer, mal kleiner, mal bunter, um uns herumgeschwirrt sind. Nach langem Überlegen ist Andi eingefallen woher er den blau gepunkteten Schmetterling kennt: Vom Memory!!! 🙂

Flussbett im Shakadang-Trail
Shakadang-Trail
Schmetterlinge

Nach gut 1,5 Stunden sind wir wieder bei unseren Klapprädern angekommen und haben uns auf den Rückweg zu Verleihstation gemacht. Hierzu mussten wir es (zum Glück) nur bergab rollen lassen. Die Räder waren für diesen Tag zwar super, aber unsere anderen geliehenen Räder laufen deutlich besser.

Zum Abendessen haben wir dann nochmals Suppe in der gleichen Suppenküche wie gestern gegessen.
Morgen wollen wir dann mit den Rädern weiter in Richtung Süden fahren. Wir haben einige Unterkünfte ausgeschaut, die wir je nach Lust und Laune anfahren wollen.

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